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Thursday, October 20, 2011

Reel Rock 2011 Recap

Reel Rock 2011 was awesome! Thank you all so much for coming and an extra big thanks to the volunteers who made it one of the smoothest shows we've done yet and to Pipeworks for donating the gym and some staff members to help out. We couldn't do it without you. Over three hundred local climbers and other rad folks made it to the show this year and the energy was great.

CRAGS's Reel Rock 2011 in numbers:

6 amazing movies.

300 + local climbers plus volunteers and staff.

2 kegs of delicious, local, free beer.

1 food truck serving up tasty, wholesome creations (thanks Mama Kim Cooks!)

1 metric ton of buttered popcorn eaten.

1 truckload of shwag raffled off.

We look forward to seeing you all again next year, just don't slack-line like sketchy Andy.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Update on Climbing Prohibition in ASRA

Since its formation in 2008, CRAGS has worked continuously to lift the climbing prohibition in the Auburn State Recreation Area (ASRA). The ASRA is owned by the Federal Bureau of Reclamation (BOR) and managed by the State Department of Parks and Recreation (DPR). CRAGS has met with officials from both agencies over the years to discuss the climbing ban, written numerous letters and other written correspondence, requested and reviewed substantial documentation related to the ban; and lobbied state legislative representatives for support.

One of the challenges in realizing an end of the climbing ban is that the combination of state and federal jurisdiction has often made it difficult to understand who is calling the shots. For example, the climbing ban which began in 2003, was technically issued by the Superintendant of the ASRA, which falls under the jurisdiction of the State DPR. Indeed, as managers of the ASRA, it has been state DPR employees (park rangers) which have enforced the climbing ban. However, it was the Federal BOR that unofficially requested ASRA to issue the climbing ban in the first place, and has continued to instruct DPR to maintain enforcement of the ban.

Recently, CRAGS met with officials from the Federal BOR at the Quarry in the ASRA to discuss lifting the ban. During that meeting, BOR officials would not commit to lifting the ban immediately, but the meeting was positive in dispelling BOR's stated concern of potential danger to climbers from the active mining opperations occuring above the climbing routes in the Quarry. BOR officials did commit to continue discussing the issue internally and respond more formally to CRAGS' request in the coming weeks. CRAGS will continue to push for the cessation of the climbing ban. Stay tuned . . . .

Wednesday, September 7, 2011


Arnaud Petit climbs "Black Bean" 8b on trad gear in CeĆ¼se

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Lover's Leap Adopt-A-Crag in Review

The June Adopt-A-Crag was a huge success. Dozens of CRAGS' friends and members converged on the camping area at Lover's Leap on the morning of the 25 and got assignments from the friendly Forrest Service Rangers. After collecting shovels, snacks and work gloves, one group headed up Pony Express to the Hogsback approach while another focused on the approach to the lower buttress. Both focused on reinforcing the existing trails using sustainable methods that would provide for heavy traffic and water-runoff.

A third group stayed in the camping area and emptied fire pits; hauling ash and garbage to the trash area and raking all flammable materials away from the pits. The more artistic volunteers received gallons of brown paint and brushes from the Forrest Service and went to work painting the picnic tables and benches, with the exception of those recently destroyed by neighborhood bears.

To thank the folks at the lodge for hosting the volunteers during dinner, another contingent dragged rakes and shovels down the hill and pulled invasive weeds and plants from the grassy area in front of the lodge, further beautifying and fire-proofing the area. Everyone stayed hydrated and happy and the volunteer time flew by.

As volunteers finished their various projects, several top-ropes were set up and folks shed their work gloved and boots in favor of climbing shoes and chalk bags. Everyone who wanted to got a chance to climb the amazing rock they'd been working to protect and some tried their hands at climbing for the very first time.

When everyone had worked up a sufficient appetite they converged on the lodge for a feast of spaghetti, garlic bread and salad and those of age chose from the bar's excellent selection of brews. When all bellies were full and high-fives were given out, volunteers trudged back up the hill and set up camp. Campfires were started, coolers were emptied and campers eventually fell asleep under the newly spiffy, safe and sustainable Lover's Leap. The next day many people stayed and climbed until they couldn't lift their arms. Thank you very much to all of the volunteers, organizers and staff of the lodge. See you next time!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Lover's Leap Adopt-A-Crag 2011 (This Saturday and Sunday!)

It's that time again folks! Lover's Leap needs to be cleaned just as much...if not more, than it is climbed! Come out and support a local effort to give back to a beautiful place we all love to play at! On June 25-26th, we will clean-up to prepare the crag for the season...and climb on it too!!! We will clean up for a few hours on Saturday...until the need to climb takes over (probably around 2 or 3?) and camp overnight. Dinner and drinks will be at the Strawberry Lodge on Saturday evening. Sunday will be dedicated to just climbing and no clean-up. If you are not able to carpool or stay both days, you can drive up yourself and meet at the campground on Saturday morning. We hope to see you there!

Monday, June 13, 2011

Origins - The Hulk

Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada. This is the second installment in the Origins series, presented by Evolv shoes with The North Face and Mountain Gear. Featured on the 2010 REEL ROCK Film Tour DVD and HD Download.
Music by Robots With Hearts, Todayokay, The Brute Chorus, New Town Kings, Sub Rosa, Stax Dempsey,

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Want to help with a Reel Rock Tour short film?

A local climber/film-maker is in need of your skills.

Project: A short film (15 minutes) to document the progress of a teenager with a disability as he trains and learns to climb and eventually goes on a rock climbing trip outside.

Needed: someone with filming experience who wants to DONATE time to help with filming, rope rigging to film outside and other random climbing/filming things. The main filming help will be for a three day weekend either at the very end of June or July, you will need to take a Friday off.

My contact information is Rennie Lee:, and my phone # is 916-585-4286.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Climbing in California State Parks in jeopardy!

Your help is needed to stop the indefinite closure of 70 California State Parks. As budget battles continue in Sacramento, parks around the state face an uncertain future. In response to recent cuts, the California Department of Parks and Recreation has released a list of state parks that will be closed. Included in the closures are the granite spires of Castle Crags State Park and the iconic sandstone boulders of Castle Rock State Park. The park closures will cut off access to these popular climbing areas, eliminate a funding source for the state, and severely impact local economies. Click here to go to the Access Fund's Action Center where you can write your state representative—and copy Ruth Coleman, Director of California State Parks—today and tell them to restore funding for California State Parks!

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Unlock Jailhouse - Planet Granite Matches All Donations!

In November, the Access Fund announced that it had secured permanent access to Jailhouse Rock , near Sonora California, through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign. However the current parking lot and approach trail still cross private land, which is up for sale. The Access Fund needs your help to raise $40k in the next 12 months to build a new parking area and trailhead and build a stewardship fund to protect Jailhouse for years to come.

Now through February 15th, Planet Granite Climbing Yoga & Fitness is matching every contribution made to the Unlock Jailhouse Fund, dollar for dollar, up to $10,000! Jailhouse Rock is a local crag for many Planet Granite members, and the San Francisco Bay Area gym wants to give back. Take advantage of their generosity and double your donation today !

You can help protect access to one of the best sport climbing destinations in the country! Please give to the Unlock Jailhouse fund and double your donation today!>

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund & Planet Granite

Friday, January 14, 2011

CRAGS general membership meeting on Wednesday January 26, 2011 at 7:00 at Pipeworks.

There will be a CRAGS general membership meeting on Wednesday January 26, 2011 at 7:00 at Pipeworks. CRAGS members will have an opportunity to elect/reelect members of the Board of Directors. Next week, Brian will send out another email notifying members of who has been nominated. Hope to see you there!