Access Fund Summit - Trip Report (by Renee)

Above all, remember that you’re a climber. –Paul Morley from SECC

At the end of March, Brian and I flew down to Vegas for the Access Fund Summit. Brian had been the previous year, but this was my first time. And my expectations were blown away.

Brian had looked up the building we were meeting in in Blue Diamond, which is just outside the city, and he joked that it looked like an igloo. Ironically, it turned out to be the coldest building I’ve ever spent time in. This includes my office, where I am forced to wear a sweater during 100+ degree Sacramento summers. Despite the beautiful weather outside, we all bundled up in down jackets, hats, gloves and scarves while inside.

It was worth every freezing minute.

I knew I liked these people as soon as I saw they’d included nutella in the breakfast spread. We began with introductions and then a panel discussion. Next, Brian led a discussion on partnering with federal agencies, and then Gary talked about partnering with state and local agencies. Both focused on a spirit of cooperation and an attitude that presumes we’re all (climbers and agencies) working for the best for the land and each other.

Some key ideas I noted:

-Hold climbing season movie nights or slideshows to build community.

-Friends of J-Tree sponsors “Climbers’ Coffee” where they fund the materials for park services to host the event…this builds their relationships.

-An MOU (memorandum of understanding) lets you be the voice for your group.

-There are a variety of ideas for membership. Some groups prefer to do lifetime membership to simplify the process and focus on other events instead of the constant effort to renew members.

-It’s useful to partner with other outdoor groups. Home owners may also be interested in your efforts.

-There will be people who misuse resources…try to outnumber them with good deeds.

-Volunteering to do work for the park services is a win-win. They get credit for your volunteer hours. Volunteering also leaves everyone with a feeling of ownership for the area.

-Holding a retreat for your board helps everyone focus and plan the goals.

-Lisa from LV uses meetup.com to post opportunities.

-Discussed the Freedom of Information Act and how it’s helped in many situations. Similar policies exist under different names at the state level.

-Focus on the job spin to get government attention…if developing your area will affect the job situation positively, point that out!

-Don’t do events that compete with guide services.

-We need to work on linking to each other’s LCO websites.

After a delicious lunch that Amy arranged, and a quick thaw outside in the sun, we returned for the afternoon session. Steve discussed NEPA, the National Environmental Policy Act, and armed us with some great materials to take home. Jason talked about fixed anchors after that. I learned that federally designated wilderness is defined as not allowing mechanized (like mountain bikes) or motorized (like drills) equipment in the grounds. Federal services include Park Service, Forest Service, BLM, and Fish & Wildlife territory.

Finishing in the early afternoon, we took a quick group pictures and made a move out to the rocks! The majority of us rolled into Calico and spread out. I was already impressed by my peers, but this is where I became really impressed. I have never experienced a group of so many people, who had mostly just met, climbing so well together. But it was really that simple. We were all ecstatic to be there, playing on incredible rock in a new place.

Within very little time we had a wall of top ropes set up so the majority of people could rotate and climb their fill, while those who had fit ropes into their luggage led harder climbs on the other three sides of the rock. I haven’t “warmed up” on a hard 11 in a long time…these folks weren’t messing around! Special thanks to the locals that quickly told us where to go and what was what. I loved getting to climb with so many new people who adore the sport.

Sunday morning was kicked off by Paul’s “Strength and Motivation” presentation, appropriate for someone who had gotten up at 5:30am to try to send a problem before the session started. The SECC is one of the more accomplished LCOs, and hearing what the experienced organizations have been able to accomplish was truly inspiring. The idea that we could purchase land to preserve climbing…wow. These groups are making the unbelievable happen.

Kevin and Greg followed this with a discussion on handling raptors and proposed closures. I learned a lot and was really impressed by the amount of work that the San Diego LCO has put into this. Another expert from the east coast, Anthony, spoke about climbing management plans, and then Jason & Doug talked about planning and historic designations. (Note to self: definitely go climb at City of Rocks.) Thompson taught us some psychological tricks for building a stronger org, and Joe explained more about land conservation options.

A few more things I noted:

-“Teamworks” teaches kids about conservation by creating friendly competition.

-Discussed insurance options…something we all need to consider

-Seasonal newsletters are a good way to stay in touch

-Climbing with different people from your normal crew gives you new perspectives on your community and its needs.

-Compromising with a raptor advisory is better than a closure if the birds aren’t at risk

-Don’t forget local university resources

-State Historic Preservation Office could be useful

-Have a personal mission as well as your org’s mission

Overall, an amazing weekend full of great knowledge and energetic, motivated climbers. Thanks to Amy, Brady, and Dean from the Access Fund for putting together such a great event!

~Renee

Minutes from 3/9 - CRAGS

Attendees: Gordy, Renee, Brian, Ellen, Rob
Apologies: Aaron, Jason

-Brian met with Schroder & Finnigan (sp?) about Auburn and is awaiting a response

-Tax status: still getting push-back. Ellen and Brian to craft a new letter. (Done)

-Leap clean-up
-Have 3 local contacts that are helpful
-Rob is working the recycling angle
-Question raised as to if we could offer volunteers a free pass in trade?
-Jason's CRAGS' facebook page will help with advertising - maybe mid-May to start recruiting
-June 5 tentatively marked for this, but will have to see about weather

-Blog: Aaron added new educational material

-Want to put general membership on the next agenda. Could consider doing a newsletter.

-Next board meeting scheduled for Thursday, April 15, 7pm at Pipeworks.

Thanks,
Renee

Minutes from 1/28 - CRAGS

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 11:44:14 -0800

Attendees: Renee, Aaron, Rob, Jason, Andrew, Ellen, Brian
Apols: Gordy, Colin

Minutes:
-Access Fund meeting is in Red Rocks (Vegas) March 26-28. Brian to send follow-up (done). All are invited and it's free.
-Discussions will be about public land issues

-Unanimous voting to elect Renee, Aaron, Jason, and Ellen to the BOD

-Andrew and Brian continue working on our tax forms and status. Got a reply to our 501c3 application, to which Brian sent a very thorough explanation in response.

-Discussed spring Adopt-a-Crag plans.
-Agreed on The Leap.
-Late May or early June.
-Options: lodge support, trail creation, recycling, clean-up
-Ellen offered to contact Forest Service and Rob to contact the lodge within the next two weeks to talk with them and see what ideas they have. They'll send an update via email after that.

-Next meeting scheduled for Tuesday, March 9th (7pm PW).
Gordy - does this work for you? We could do Wednesday, too.
-Will need to do officer elections at the next meeting.

Thanks!
Renee

Local Geology and the Question of Exactly How Buffed Are Your Routes?

Most peoples experience in climbing revolves around a steady progression of climbs at lower grades moving to harder as their skills increase. This general progression through the learning curve of grades often results in many people climbing the same routes over and over again, particularly at the low grades. The result? Buffed Routes!

When I say Buffed, I don't mean these climbs have muscles, it means that throughout the years, in some of the older more established areas decades, the routes are slowly but surely cleaned of all loose rock by the passage and pulling of hundreds if not thousands of ascents. This often leaves new comers, and even some picky old timers, with the perspective that all climbing routes are magically clean from the get go. This is most often not the case, and in the case of newly developed routes, is generally the exception, not the norm.

Now there are some routes, most often due to the variety of local geological rock type, that will never be bullet or buffed, but to some, this is all part of the magic of climbing. The Bay and Sacramento area runs the gauntlet of climbable rock in just about every imaginable rock type. This wide variety in local geology can make for a very different climbing experience depending on where you go. From an educational view think of it like this:

Slabby rock generally is subject to more weathering ranging from rain to wind. This often results in cleaner rock which often may be covered by moss or lichen in areas with wetter or shadier climates. Overhanging rock is usually less exposed and therefore often is more chossy. Look at areas like Rifle, CO or American Fork near Salt Lake to see prime examples. The beauty of this rock though is once "cleaned" the "chossiness" provides great climbing features that allow steep expanses of rock to be actually climbable. Local examples include Table Mountain near Sonora, Big Chief, the Bear near Calistoga.

Granitic/igneous rock or other extremely dense rock is usually cleaner from the get go. Think about places like Yosemite, Cosumnes, or Lovers Leap. Most of these areas require little cleaning of moss/lichen on key holds and then kicking the rock to free the few loose areas. These routes often reach "buffed" within a few ascents.

In contrast softer sedimentary rock, like sandstone or limestone, generally are more chossy to start and will require more cleaning as well as more traffic to clean up to "buffed" status. Good local examples of this are Mt. Diablo, Auburn SRA, or Castle Rock SP.

And then there is volcanic rock which can range from dense columnar basalt to breccia of mid-grade density to soft and porous welded tuff. These areas can go from limited cleaning in slabbier areas, to overhanging well featured semi-construction level efforts to clean. The rock quality can range from bullet like Putah Creek, to slightly less bullet but still solid aka Nut Tree, to Big Chief Table Rock semi-chossy that cleans up nicely, to Mount Saint Helena (MSH) grade welded tuff to the north of the 29 aka The Bear and Bubble, progressing (or digressing depending how you look at it) in quality to the Pinnacles in the South Bay to Table Scraps and Table Rock on the south of 29 on MSH.

The bottom line is take time to educate yourself about any area you plan on visiting and adjust your expectations to rock quality factoring density and years established to maximize your experience. If you go to Table Scraps (soft rock that was established in the last few months with little traffic) thinking it will be roughly equivalent "buffed-wise" to anything in the Grotto 5.10 and under which has seen thousands of ascents over many years and is made of much more dense basalt, you are setting unrealistic expectations. Other considerations for choosing your destination over any given trip is weather. Give the rock a day or two to dry out after any rain for softer areas like Mt Diablo, Table Rock, or Auburn. Softer more porous rock absorbs more water and therefore is weakened by rain more so than granitic or dense rock areas which often just take a stiff breeze to dry in a few hours like The Nut Tree Boulders, or Mickeys/Stinsons Beach areas.

Some people will "poo poo" areas based upon rock quality and relative "buffed-status", while others seek out the challenges this type of rock offers. I prefer a wide variety in my climbing diet ranging from choss to bullet. It keeps the experience fresh and will constantly throw new challenges your way. Regardless of your preference, educating yourself about the geology of local areas can be fun, fascinating, and just may help you have a more enjoyable time when you go climbing!

CRAGS meeting/election on January 28th

Hello, climbers!

Thank you for your interest in CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento). Established in early 2008, CRAGS is a local climbing organization and affiliate of the Access Fund created in order to protect local climbing areas. The organization has brought the Reel Rock film to Sacramento the past two years, has done local climbing area clean-up, and has been working to reopen climbing in the nearby Auburn quarry.

Our next meeting will be held on Thursday, January 28, 2010, at 7PM at the Sacramento Pipeworks gym. We would love to have your involvement and ideas! We will also be holding our annual election for the board of directors that evening, and if you are interested in running or know someone that is, please send us your name within the next two weeks. The board has 9 members and 2-4 alternates, and half of these positions will be reelected on the 28^th. We meet about every other month and work together via email in between meetings, which are usually held at Pipeworks.

You can find more information at our website here: http://yourcrags.blogspot.com/

We hope to see you on the 28^th!

Your CRAGS secretary,

Renee Ross

BOD Meeting Weds 092309 @ 7PM

The Board will be meeting at Pipeworks @ 7PM on Wednesday 092309. Known agenda topics so far:

• Auburn Status and Next Steps
• Reel Rock Update and Planning
  

Thurs 08/20/09 BOD Meeting

The board met on Thursday at Pipeworks to finalize the Draft Interim Climbing Management Plan to be presented to the SRA. Attendees were: Brian, Gordy, Aaron, and the following via phone: Collin, Rob, and Andrew.

With some minor tweaks to the wording the resolution to accept the Plan as written was unanimous. Next step will firing it off to the SRA and setting up a meeting to discuss it!