Attendees: Gordy, Renee, Brian, Ellen, Rob
Apologies: Aaron, Jason
-Brian met with Schroder & Finnigan (sp?) about Auburn and is awaiting a response
-Tax status: still getting push-back. Ellen and Brian to craft a new letter. (Done)
-Leap clean-up
-Have 3 local contacts that are helpful
-Rob is working the recycling angle
-Question raised as to if we could offer volunteers a free pass in trade?
-Jason's CRAGS' facebook page will help with advertising - maybe mid-May to start recruiting
-June 5 tentatively marked for this, but will have to see about weather
-Blog: Aaron added new educational material
-Want to put general membership on the next agenda. Could consider doing a newsletter.
-Next board meeting scheduled for Thursday, April 15, 7pm at Pipeworks.
Thanks,
Renee
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Minutes from 1/28 - CRAGS
Date: Fri, 29 Jan 2010 11:44:14 -0800
Attendees: Renee, Aaron, Rob, Jason, Andrew, Ellen, Brian
Apols: Gordy, Colin
Minutes:
-Access Fund meeting is in Red Rocks (Vegas) March 26-28. Brian to send follow-up (done). All are invited and it's free.
-Discussions will be about public land issues
-Unanimous voting to elect Renee, Aaron, Jason, and Ellen to the BOD
-Andrew and Brian continue working on our tax forms and status. Got a reply to our 501c3 application, to which Brian sent a very thorough explanation in response.
-Discussed spring Adopt-a-Crag plans.
-Agreed on The Leap.
-Late May or early June.
-Options: lodge support, trail creation, recycling, clean-up
-Ellen offered to contact Forest Service and Rob to contact the lodge within the next two weeks to talk with them and see what ideas they have. They'll send an update via email after that.
-Next meeting scheduled for Tuesday, March 9th (7pm PW).
Gordy - does this work for you? We could do Wednesday, too.
-Will need to do officer elections at the next meeting.
Thanks!
Renee
Apols: Gordy, Colin
Minutes:
-Access Fund meeting is in Red Rocks (Vegas) March 26-28. Brian to send follow-up (done). All are invited and it's free.
-Discussions will be about public land issues
-Unanimous voting to elect Renee, Aaron, Jason, and Ellen to the BOD
-Andrew and Brian continue working on our tax forms and status. Got a reply to our 501c3 application, to which Brian sent a very thorough explanation in response.
-Discussed spring Adopt-a-Crag plans.
-Agreed on The Leap.
-Late May or early June.
-Options: lodge support, trail creation, recycling, clean-up
-Ellen offered to contact Forest Service and Rob to contact the lodge within the next two weeks to talk with them and see what ideas they have. They'll send an update via email after that.
-Next meeting scheduled for Tuesday, March 9th (7pm PW).
Gordy - does this work for you? We could do Wednesday, too.
-Will need to do officer elections at the next meeting.
Thanks!
Renee
Local Geology and the Question of Exactly How Buffed Are Your Routes?
Most peoples experience in climbing revolves around a steady progression of climbs at lower grades moving to harder as their skills increase. This general progression through the learning curve of grades often results in many people climbing the same routes over and over again, particularly at the low grades. The result? Buffed Routes!
When I say Buffed, I don't mean these climbs have muscles, it means that throughout the years, in some of the older more established areas decades, the routes are slowly but surely cleaned of all loose rock by the passage and pulling of hundreds if not thousands of ascents. This often leaves new comers, and even some picky old timers, with the perspective that all climbing routes are magically clean from the get go. This is most often not the case, and in the case of newly developed routes, is generally the exception, not the norm.
Now there are some routes, most often due to the variety of local geological rock type, that will never be bullet or buffed, but to some, this is all part of the magic of climbing. The Bay and Sacramento area runs the gauntlet of climbable rock in just about every imaginable rock type. This wide variety in local geology can make for a very different climbing experience depending on where you go. From an educational view think of it like this:
Slabby rock generally is subject to more weathering ranging from rain to wind. This often results in cleaner rock which often may be covered by moss or lichen in areas with wetter or shadier climates. Overhanging rock is usually less exposed and therefore often is more chossy. Look at areas like Rifle, CO or American Fork near Salt Lake to see prime examples. The beauty of this rock though is once "cleaned" the "chossiness" provides great climbing features that allow steep expanses of rock to be actually climbable. Local examples include Table Mountain near Sonora, Big Chief, the Bear near Calistoga.
Granitic/igneous rock or other extremely dense rock is usually cleaner from the get go. Think about places like Yosemite, Cosumnes, or Lovers Leap. Most of these areas require little cleaning of moss/lichen on key holds and then kicking the rock to free the few loose areas. These routes often reach "buffed" within a few ascents.
In contrast softer sedimentary rock, like sandstone or limestone, generally are more chossy to start and will require more cleaning as well as more traffic to clean up to "buffed" status. Good local examples of this are Mt. Diablo, Auburn SRA, or Castle Rock SP.
And then there is volcanic rock which can range from dense columnar basalt to breccia of mid-grade density to soft and porous welded tuff. These areas can go from limited cleaning in slabbier areas, to overhanging well featured semi-construction level efforts to clean. The rock quality can range from bullet like Putah Creek, to slightly less bullet but still solid aka Nut Tree, to Big Chief Table Rock semi-chossy that cleans up nicely, to Mount Saint Helena (MSH) grade welded tuff to the north of the 29 aka The Bear and Bubble, progressing (or digressing depending how you look at it) in quality to the Pinnacles in the South Bay to Table Scraps and Table Rock on the south of 29 on MSH.
The bottom line is take time to educate yourself about any area you plan on visiting and adjust your expectations to rock quality factoring density and years established to maximize your experience. If you go to Table Scraps (soft rock that was established in the last few months with little traffic) thinking it will be roughly equivalent "buffed-wise" to anything in the Grotto 5.10 and under which has seen thousands of ascents over many years and is made of much more dense basalt, you are setting unrealistic expectations. Other considerations for choosing your destination over any given trip is weather. Give the rock a day or two to dry out after any rain for softer areas like Mt Diablo, Table Rock, or Auburn. Softer more porous rock absorbs more water and therefore is weakened by rain more so than granitic or dense rock areas which often just take a stiff breeze to dry in a few hours like The Nut Tree Boulders, or Mickeys/Stinsons Beach areas.
Some people will "poo poo" areas based upon rock quality and relative "buffed-status", while others seek out the challenges this type of rock offers. I prefer a wide variety in my climbing diet ranging from choss to bullet. It keeps the experience fresh and will constantly throw new challenges your way. Regardless of your preference, educating yourself about the geology of local areas can be fun, fascinating, and just may help you have a more enjoyable time when you go climbing!
When I say Buffed, I don't mean these climbs have muscles, it means that throughout the years, in some of the older more established areas decades, the routes are slowly but surely cleaned of all loose rock by the passage and pulling of hundreds if not thousands of ascents. This often leaves new comers, and even some picky old timers, with the perspective that all climbing routes are magically clean from the get go. This is most often not the case, and in the case of newly developed routes, is generally the exception, not the norm.
Now there are some routes, most often due to the variety of local geological rock type, that will never be bullet or buffed, but to some, this is all part of the magic of climbing. The Bay and Sacramento area runs the gauntlet of climbable rock in just about every imaginable rock type. This wide variety in local geology can make for a very different climbing experience depending on where you go. From an educational view think of it like this:
Slabby rock generally is subject to more weathering ranging from rain to wind. This often results in cleaner rock which often may be covered by moss or lichen in areas with wetter or shadier climates. Overhanging rock is usually less exposed and therefore often is more chossy. Look at areas like Rifle, CO or American Fork near Salt Lake to see prime examples. The beauty of this rock though is once "cleaned" the "chossiness" provides great climbing features that allow steep expanses of rock to be actually climbable. Local examples include Table Mountain near Sonora, Big Chief, the Bear near Calistoga.
Granitic/igneous rock or other extremely dense rock is usually cleaner from the get go. Think about places like Yosemite, Cosumnes, or Lovers Leap. Most of these areas require little cleaning of moss/lichen on key holds and then kicking the rock to free the few loose areas. These routes often reach "buffed" within a few ascents.
In contrast softer sedimentary rock, like sandstone or limestone, generally are more chossy to start and will require more cleaning as well as more traffic to clean up to "buffed" status. Good local examples of this are Mt. Diablo, Auburn SRA, or Castle Rock SP.
And then there is volcanic rock which can range from dense columnar basalt to breccia of mid-grade density to soft and porous welded tuff. These areas can go from limited cleaning in slabbier areas, to overhanging well featured semi-construction level efforts to clean. The rock quality can range from bullet like Putah Creek, to slightly less bullet but still solid aka Nut Tree, to Big Chief Table Rock semi-chossy that cleans up nicely, to Mount Saint Helena (MSH) grade welded tuff to the north of the 29 aka The Bear and Bubble, progressing (or digressing depending how you look at it) in quality to the Pinnacles in the South Bay to Table Scraps and Table Rock on the south of 29 on MSH.
The bottom line is take time to educate yourself about any area you plan on visiting and adjust your expectations to rock quality factoring density and years established to maximize your experience. If you go to Table Scraps (soft rock that was established in the last few months with little traffic) thinking it will be roughly equivalent "buffed-wise" to anything in the Grotto 5.10 and under which has seen thousands of ascents over many years and is made of much more dense basalt, you are setting unrealistic expectations. Other considerations for choosing your destination over any given trip is weather. Give the rock a day or two to dry out after any rain for softer areas like Mt Diablo, Table Rock, or Auburn. Softer more porous rock absorbs more water and therefore is weakened by rain more so than granitic or dense rock areas which often just take a stiff breeze to dry in a few hours like The Nut Tree Boulders, or Mickeys/Stinsons Beach areas.
Some people will "poo poo" areas based upon rock quality and relative "buffed-status", while others seek out the challenges this type of rock offers. I prefer a wide variety in my climbing diet ranging from choss to bullet. It keeps the experience fresh and will constantly throw new challenges your way. Regardless of your preference, educating yourself about the geology of local areas can be fun, fascinating, and just may help you have a more enjoyable time when you go climbing!
Thursday, December 31, 2009
CRAGS meeting/election on January 28th
Hello, climbers!
Thank you for your interest in CRAGS (Climbing Resource Advocates for Greater Sacramento). Established in early 2008, CRAGS is a local climbing organization and affiliate of the Access Fund created in order to protect local climbing areas. The organization has brought the Reel Rock film to Sacramento the past two years, has done local climbing area clean-up, and has been working to reopen climbing in the nearby Auburn quarry.
Our next meeting will be held on Thursday, January 28, 2010, at 7PM at the Sacramento Pipeworks gym. We would love to have your involvement and ideas! We will also be holding our annual election for the board of directors that evening, and if you are interested in running or know someone that is, please send us your name within the next two weeks. The board has 9 members and 2-4 alternates, and half of these positions will be reelected on the 28th. We meet about every other month and work together via email in between meetings, which are usually held at Pipeworks.
You can find more information at our website here: http://yourcrags.blogspot.com/
We hope to see you on the 28th!
Your CRAGS secretary,
Renee Ross
Saturday, September 19, 2009
BOD Meeting Weds 092309 @ 7PM
The Board will be meeting at Pipeworks @ 7PM on Wednesday 092309. Known agenda topics so far:
- Auburn Status and Next Steps
- Reel Rock Update and Planning
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Thurs 08/20/09 BOD Meeting
The board met on Thursday at Pipeworks to finalize the Draft Interim Climbing Management Plan to be presented to the SRA. Attendees were: Brian, Gordy, Aaron, and the following via phone: Collin, Rob, and Andrew.
With some minor tweaks to the wording the resolution to accept the Plan as written was unanimous. Next step will firing it off to the SRA and setting up a meeting to discuss it!
With some minor tweaks to the wording the resolution to accept the Plan as written was unanimous. Next step will firing it off to the SRA and setting up a meeting to discuss it!
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Auburn Quarry Needs Your Support
Do you like limestone? Would you like to be able to drive to the foothills and have your pick of at least 150 good climbs?
If your answers are "Yes. Yes. Yes!!," then the quarry at Auburn State Recreation Area needs your help.
CRAGS is pushing ahead on efforts to get climbing legalized in the recreation area. Access to this climbing area has been long sought by climbers. And it'd help boost Auburn's economy with all the money we climbers spend while we're out there on gas, food, Starbucks, microbrews, camping, supplies and other stuff.
The next step is to seek the city of Auburn's assistance with requesting that the California Department of Parks and Recreation speed up lifting the ban that's been in place since 2003.
The state parks' Gold Fields District, which manages the federally (publicly) owned land, is currently developing an updated General Plan/Interim Resource Management Plan for the recreation area that appears to include technical rock climbing as an approved activity.
CRAGS will make a 15-minute presentation to Auburn's City Council at about 6:30 p.m. Monday, April 13. The meeting starts at 6 p.m.
The more climbers who can turn out for the meeting and show their support for this climbing area, the better. It's a drive for some folks -- carpool if you can so that city officials know how much interest there is when they make their decision.
The city will be considering this request until its April 13 meeting, when the resolution is expected to be voted on. Please call, email or write the city manager and mayor requesting their support for an expedited end to the climbing ban.
For directions to city council chambers and map.
The Auburn City Hall is very easy to find. From the west, take the 2nd Auburn exit. It will say Hwy 49 to Grass Valley. At the end of the ramp, go right. The large old 3-story yellow-brick building right in front of you as you drive up the street is City Hall. Get in the left lane. At the signal, go straight across with a slight angle left, into the driveway for City Hall. Park behind the building, and walk to the left rear entrance (downhill side of the back of the building). Inside the door, stairways go up and down. Bear left and go up. When you reach the next level, the City Council chambers will be through the doors on the left.
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